J. Medernach & D. Memmert (2021). Effects of Decision-Making on Indoor Bouldering Performances: A Multi-Experimental Study Approach.

The purpose of this study was to investigate whether novice, intermediate, and advanced bouldering athletes would differ in their decision-making abilities and to what extent distinct problem-solving tactics would affect the athletes’ bouldering performances. Seventy-seven male bouldering athletes participated in a multi-experimental study with the conceptual replication of three bouldering tasks. In total, the findings emphasize that accomplished decision-making abilities consist of a key determinant in successful indoor bouldering performances.

DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0250701

J. Medernach (2018). The Schoolboard: A Methodological Concept to Introduce Indoor Bouldering in Physical Education.

The purpose of the present study was to investigate the popularity and the current state of application of bouldering in the luxembourgish school system. Moreover, the study aimed to examine the use of the Schoolboard as a measure to counter current, infrastructural deficits and as a methodical way to teach the basic bouldering skills in physical education.

Keywords: bouldering; physical education; schoolboard

J. Medernach, H. Kleinöder, & H. Lötzerich (2016). Movement Demands of Elite Female and Male Athletes in Competitive Bouldering

The aim of this study was to investigate the movement demands of elite female and male athletes in competitive bouldering.

Keywords: Bouldering; sport climbing; grip strength; grip endurance; climbing time. 

DOI: https://doi.org/10.7752/jpes.2016.03132

J. Medernach, H. Kleinöder, & H., Lötzerich. Fingerboard in Competitive Bouldering: Training Effects on Grip Strength and Endurance.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the training effects of 4 weeks of fingerboarding on grip strength and endurance in competitive bouldering.

Keywords: hangboard; dead hangs; finger hangs.

DOI: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000000873. 

Full access: the Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research

J. Medernach, H. Kleinöder, & H. Lötzerich (2015). Effect of interval bouldering on hanging and climbing time to exhaustion.

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of interval bouldering on hanging and climbing time to exhaustion.

Keywords: climbing; fingerboard; grip endurance; strength training; intermittent training.

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2015.1063643

Full access: Sports Technology Journal

J. Medernach (2015). Einsatz sportartspezifischer Trainingsmethoden im Wettkampfbouldern.

The aim of the study was to investigate the effects of bouldering, interval bouldering, training on the Moonboard and fingerboard in the presence and absence of vibration stimuli on maximum finger strength, the strength of the arm flexors and the shoulder girdle, and finger endurance.

Keywords: climbing; bouldering; fingerboard; vibration; finger strength; finger endurance.

J. Medernach (2011). Einsatz des Hangboards zur Steigerung der lokalen Kraftausdauer im Klettersport.

The aim of the present study was to investigate the use of fingerboards in order to increase local muscular endurance in sport climbing.

Key words: bouldering; fingerboard; finger strength; local endurance.